Fashion Industry, Design
Issues and Practices
MIT Workshop (Page One)

By Shirley Willett (Pres. Stylometrics, Inc.)
January 8 & 9, 2004




I represented the fashion industry as one of four "expert witnesses" and presenters of various industries at MIT. The other three are automobiles (with the VP of Ford), architecture (a woman who owns her own firm) and a software engineer (from Microsoft). It is an extension of workshops that took place at Cambridge University in England, in 2002. There were six researchers: three academics from the English workshop, and three engineering and architecture professors from MIT.

The following paper was presented as a guide for the others in the workshop, and for those who need more knowledge of how the fashion industry works. The information is divided into four basic divisions that involve design practice, in order to accommodate all the myriad existing divisions, with less confusion and optimum understanding for the reader.

 

Page One: MIT themes are dark gray and broken down on the left, and matched with the design issues in the four divisions of the fashion industry, broken down in the text. Light grey highlights important issues in the summary. (Page 2 to 7, Text)


MIT Table, page 1.

MIT Text, pps 2 to 6


A. Representation

 

A-1. Models

1-1. Sketches for communication, 2-2. Sample for evaluation, & (4-1) Selling

A-2. Visualization

1-1. Sketching in developing design from mental images

A-3. Analysis

2-2. Mathematically precise ­ matching seams in patterns
2-3. "Grade rules" for sizing, (3-1) Cost analysis

A-4. Samples

2-2. Pre-existing objects ­ Sloper or primitive patterns

A-5. Terminology

Footnotes for specific fashion language.

A-6. Tools

2-2. Pattern engineering ­ Tailor's Square and Curve

A-7. Mental images Summary

All design phases, translated to image language

A-8. Communication
Summary: P.O.D.

1-2. Sketches & specs for communication
2-2. "Stylometrics" - language of fashion images


B. Process

B-1. Phases Summary

Four basic phases in apparel industry

B-2. Kick-off

1-1. Design process starts with idea in mind, or with sketch.

B-3. Completion

4-1. Selling & reordering, test of good design


C. Data

C-1. Precedents

2-2. Sloper patterns to make other patterns

C-3. Research

1-3. Designers research firm's history

C-5. Rules

2-3. "Grade rules" for sizing

C-6. Recording
Summary : P.O.D.

1-3. Style information recorded in "Style Books"
2-2. Patterns as records of information

C-7. Computer Summary P.O.D

2-2. Stylometrics Primitives, pattern engineering, 2-3 Sizing, 3-2 Layouts


D. Markets

D-1. Customers
 Summary: Consumer desires

4-2. Know consumer desires - "Self-A-Wear"
1-1. Young career women, 2-1. Imaging their fit & shape

D-3. Market trends Sum. classic

1-1. Leather slip-dresses, 1-3 Research trends, 4-2. Timing

D-5. Consultation
Summary: Direct consumer input

2-1. Questioning designers or buyers,
4-2. Awareness of consumer desires

D-7. Product ranges

3-1. Collections ­ Coats, suits, dresses, gowns, separates, etc.

D-8. Innovation
Summary: Collaboration

1-3. Sameness vs. creativity 3-1. Samenesses in production
3-4. "Intraprenurial" collaboration, 4-2. "Self-A-Wear", for consumer desires


E. Complexity

E-1. Partitioning

3-3. Sections: production stitching, Suede gown, unique sectioning

E-2. Design for
Summary: Consumer desires

3-1. Production, esp. outsourcing (H-3)
4-2. Consumer desires

E-4. Integration

3-1., 3-4. Worker responsibility for each other

E-6. Uncertainty Summary

"Point of Design" information to reduce, 2-3 Creativity in sizing


F. Requirements

F-1. Key issues Summary

"Point of Design" ­ Image language ­ Collaboration ­ Consumer desires

F-3. Clarification

4-1. Sales contracts for specific objectives in design, shipping. etc.

F-7. Influences

1-3. Style Book ­ for past style information

F-9. Constraints
Summary P.O.D.

1-1. Target market as constraint., 3-2 & 3-4. Cutting leather skins, 4-1. Price constraints.

F-10. Conversion

1-2. Specs added to sketches


G. Evaluation

G-1. Sales, G-6. Success

4-2. Knowing consumer desires and implementing them in designs.

G-2. Criteria, G-3. Procedures

2-1. Mental image of consumer and technical expertise for evaluation

G-4. Informants

1-2. Team: diverse sectors of business as evaluators


H. Organization

H-1. Collaboration Summary

3-4. In design and Production, 4-1. Collaboration on design

H-3. Outsourcing

3-1, 4-1 Often overseas to relieve cost constraints.

H-6. Scheduling

3-1. Production: scheduling, constraints